Living On Two Wheels In Indonesia.
So you've decided to spend some time in Indonesia ?
Good Choice.
Now, if you are a long-term resident, you simply have to get around. Taxis are fine, but after a while, you will become frustrated at being dependent on somebody else, so the only other option is to bite the bullet and get yourself a scooter.
Okay.
Lesson One
Renting your transport is perhaps the easiest part of your quest. Look for a sign that says "Sepedra Motor for rent," pop in, haggle for 30 minutes over the daily rate, agree, and the bike is yours.
Questions you will not be asked include:
a) Do you have a license?
b) Are you 17?
C) Do you have insurance?
D) Have you ever ridden a motorcycle before?
E) Do you require a helem (helmet)?
That’s it. Passport number supplied, cash handed over and away you go.
Lesson Two.
Buying Fuel.
Most of the time, when you rent a bike, the tank will be nearly empty, so fuel is a must. Finding a petrol station can be difficult, so seek out a warung (little roadside store) and look for Absolut bottles filled with gasoline.
These are usually stacked in rows on a wooden shelf and will be sold to you by the proprietor, who will willingly fill the tank. The petrol cap is under the seat. He will empty the Absolut bottle into the tank for you. Often, this gentleman will be smoking as he performs this task, so be on your toes in case of a fire, and retreat a short distance away while he or she fills your tank. Cost for one litre? About 90c.
Lesson Three.
Learning the ropes.
It is strongly suggested that you 'practice' on a quiet road away from traffic so that you can get the 'feel' for your Motor Sepeda. This is very important because you need to find out whether everything actually works. Those who don't follow this procedure often find themselves riding at night with a headlight that has less illumination than a candle.
Lesson Four.
Traffic.
Okay, welcome to Indonesia.
With the introduction of cheap credit over a decade ago, motorcycle and car ownership have soared, leaving the roads choked with motorists. There is no need to read the road rules, as basically, there are none, and if there are, no one seems to know or indeed obey them!
For the uninitiated, here are a few tips.
When approaching a roundabout, your fellow road users will assess the business and the traffic density of the roundabout and decide at the last moment which way to go around it. If the left side is a little busy, no problem, we'll go round the other way!
One-way streets. The rule is, " but I am going only one way." Do not be surprised to see a hundred bikes, a few cars and trucks heading directly for you. They are, after all, going one way, so best you get out of their way.
Traffic Lights. Again, I think the philosophy here is, " Seen one red light, seen them all." Be on your toes and simply follow the herd.
Intersections. Now this can be a little confusing for the uninitiated and the cautious. I have found that it works to abandon any thought of caution immediately, as if you are polite and allow others to go first, you could find yourself at the same intersection for a couple of days! The method is to simply GO! Sometimes one can close one's eyes, but this is not recommended. The thing to remember is, fortune favours the brave.
Pedestrian crossings are merely lines painted on the road, so do what everybody else does....ignore them.
Lesson Five.
Navigation. Best not to rely on your smartphone and its clever built-in GPS. Program; a route from say Kuta to Seminyak, and your phone might tell you that you are in Jakarta or even Rome.
Follow the signs, or better still, if you can find a local heading your way, follow him or her.
Road conditions. Unfortunately, due to the annual wet season, the roads take a pounding.
Potholes appear as if by magic, and on some roads, most potholes are held together by thin sliver of bitumen. When it rains, these potholes tend to fill with water, so it is advisable not to plough into them with gusto as you try to splash pedestrians on the side of the road. It has been known for riders to disappear down water filled pothole, never to be seen again.
Lesson Six.
The carrying of passengers.
Now that you are comfortable and you have the 'feel' for your Motor Sepeda, you will be confident enough to take a pillion passenger on your travels. This is a good thing, and, if you are feeling particularly generous, invite a couple more to join you. A scooter can, at a squeeze, seemingly accommodate up to five passengers at one go (with luggage)
This is a wonderful way to bond with family and friends. Be not afraid, as you will see infants perched in front of the driver, squeezed between him and his wife; another four children will beam at you as they whizz past. It seems only the parents wear helmets!
Although not recommended, carrying large sheets of glass between two bikes is possible. If you see two bikes heading towards you on a one-way street and you think they are carrying a large sheet of glass between them, they probably are. Best to avoid going through the middle!
So there you have it, the basic rules for getting around in this wonderful country on your own.
It's basically like a theme park ride and if that scares you.... take a cab.
Updated May 2026
Paul v Walters is the author of several novels and an anthology of short stories. When not coccooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali, he occasionally rises to scribble for several international travel journals. His latest offering, RITUAL, was launched at the recent International Ubus Writers and Readers festival.
